Wood-Solv™ SATIN Finish with Catalyst, 1 Gallon

Wood-Solv™ Water-Based Catalyzed Urethane Wood Floor Finish from Bane-Clene®

Item # 63077

  • Unique water-borne catalyzed urethane coating, superior to conventional clear finishes, that locks down final transparent top coat.
  • Wood-Solv Finish is available in Gloss, Semi-Gloss and Satin Finishes. Semi-Gloss and Satin minimize flooring imperfections.

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  • Wood-Solv™ Wood and Laminate Floor Finish - Satin

    from Bane-Clene® Corp.

    Wood floor before and after being restored with wood-solv finish

    Wood-Solv Water-Based Catalyzed Polyurethane Floor Finish provides a hard, durable finish that is beautiful and twice as durable as traditional urethane finishes.

    Features and Benefits of Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finishes:

    • Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish provides the ultimate protection for hardwood floors that is hard, clear and beautiful.
    • Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish is a catalyzed urethane finish that has been specifically formulated to provide the best scuff and scratch protection available.
    • Nothing gives you better protection for wood and laminate floors.
    • Over twice as durable as traditional wood finishes and extremely fast-drying, Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish is crystal clear,virtually odorless and provides for easy water clean up.
    • Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish provides a crystal clear, diamond hard, fast drying finish to the floor.
    • Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish is available in 3 sheens: satin, semi-gloss and gloss.
    • 1 gallon provides 2 coats of coverage for about 500 sq. ft. of floor.
    • Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish System is designed to be used on wood floors that have a urethane protective finish already applied to them.
    • May be used on hardwood floors, engineered wood floors, laminate floors such as Pergo®, cork floors and bamboo flooring.
    • Note that the warranty on laminate floors made by some manufacturers is voided if a finish is applied.
    • Check the floor for radiant heat using temperature sensitive tape.The floor should be between 60-85° for optimum rejuvenation.
    • Catalyzed topcoat can be stored for up to 24 hours before use. Performance decreases dramatically at 48 hours - Never re-catalyze a catalyzed Wood-Solv Floor Finish.
    • Has the best scuff and scratch protection available and a fast cure time too!
    • Wood-Solv finishes are virtually odorless and feature easy water cleanup. Use on interior polyurethane-finished wood flooring and on alcohol-stained wood that requires a finish coat.
    • Not for gymnasium and sport type floors.
    • Not for extremely heavy traffic floors as in some commercial applications.
    • Not for use on waxed, shellac, lacquered or oil stained wood flooring.
    • Not for use on linoleum, vinyl, glazed tile, or metal surfaces.
    • Not for gym floors and other floors where heavy stop/start (friction and heat) activities occur.
    • Not recommended where deep scratches are likely to occur such as from a clawed large pet.
    • Not for use on waxed, shellac, lacquered or oil stained wood flooring.
    • Not for use on linoleum, vinyl, glazed tiles or metal.

    Gloss Levels: No wood floor is perfect! Unlike wood furniture, wood floors have irregularities that are part of the nature and beauty of wood floors. The gloss level selected will enhance or hide these irregularities in a wood floor:

    • Satin gloss finishes hide imperfections best and should be used on old or damaged wood floors.
    • Semi-Gloss finishes will impart sheen to the floor without highlighting imperfections in the floor or minor repairs.
    • Gloss finishes, while imparting a very high sheen, will highlight every imperfection and repair and are generally used on floors that have been sanded and stained.
    • Use caution when recommending a gloss finish - imperfections are actually magnified!
    • Protect Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish from Freezing!

    Directions for refinishing wood and laminate floors with Wood-Solv Finishes:

    1. Check label directions in case directions have changed since the printing of this web page.
    2. Surface preparation for previously finished polyurethane surfaces:
      For best adhesion, surfaces must be clean, dry and free from wax, grease, oil, shellac, lacquer, mildew and polishes.
    3. Carefully remove all furniture.
    4. Move all drapery up and out of the way.
    5. Sweep the floor first and then vacuum thoroughly. All dirt and grit must be removed so it does not get ground into the floor by the buffer.
    6. Dust mop all surfaces to be refinished. Use a quality micro fiber flat dust mop and slowly remove all dust and dry particulate. Care should be taken not to agitate the dust into the air as this will cause dust to settle on the finish as it dries.
    7. Mask off any flooring that is not going to be treated, and where appropriate, protect any wallpaper at or near the floor level to protect it from damage. Do not apply tape onto wallpaper.
    8. If the floor requires screening: first remove all screening dust using a vacuum, second use a tack cloth after the dust has settled to remove any screening dust, then dry mop the floor using a micro fiber dust mop. Do not used steel wool as rust may develop after the finish as been applied. Warning: Screening dust can be a spontaneous combustion hazard. Avoid open flames and turn off heat sources
    9. Waxes must be removed with Wood-Solv Step 1 Wood Prep; sanding does not remove wax.
    10. If staining is required, use water or alcohol-based wood stain before applying the finish. Stain must be thoroughly dry, preferably overnight. Use of oil-based stains will prevent proper adhesion.
    11. Clean the floor using Wood-Solv Wood Floor Cleaner to remove all spills and surface oils. Do not avoid this step; do not over wet.
    12. Repair the floor if necessary using Wood-Solv Floor Putty and Fill Sticks.
    13. Prepare the old polyurethane finish using Wood-Solv Step 1 Wood Prep. This process etches the old polyurethane finish providing tooth for the new finish. See Wood-Solv Step 1 Wood Prep label instructions for detailed application instructions.
    14. Begin by working around the edges, lightly pouring Step 1 directly onto the floor. of the room with the scrub block. A wet scrubbing must occur for Step 1 to be effective. Avoid all unnecessary contact with baseboards, appliances, cabinetry and other surfaces not meant to be coated. All areas requiring precision or areas that cannot be accessed with a low-speed scrubbing buffer should have Step 1 applied by hand to avoid mishaps.
    15. Allow the floor to completely dry before applying finish coats.
    16. For best adhesion, surfaces must be clean, dry and free from dust, wax, grease, oil,shellac, lacquer, mildew and polishes.
    17. Add 4 oz. of Wood-Solv Catalyst to 1 gallon Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish.
    18. Add the catalyst and stir gently for 10 minutes. DO NOT shake!
    19. The catalyst is the “turbo charging” of the topcoat. It boosts the performance and protection of the finish.
    20. Add an equal amount of water and stir gently for another 5 minutes. 10 minutes before applying.
    21. Do not use on a later job!
    22. You can do your repairs while this is setting up.
    23. If using only part of semi-gloss or satin, stir well before pouring out!
    24. Pour a portion of the catalyzed Step 3 into a paint tray.
    25. Apply around the edges first with the Foam Block Edger.
    26. Pre-moisten applicator in water. Wrap masking tape around hand, sticky side out and pat applicator to remove loose fibers.
    27. Pour Step 3 Finish in an “S” pattern with the wood grain or use a paint tray.
    28. Dip the applicator into an applicator tray and apply coating to the floor in 4-foot sections. Pull in the direction of the grain. Be sure to “feather” at end of stroke. Apply in PAPER-THIN layers!
    29. Avoid bubbles!
    30. Start with Microfiber Finish Applicator System.
    31. Allow to dry 75 minutes between coats.
    32. Allow each layer to dry completely before recoating.
    33. Draw the applicator toward you in smooth even THIN strokes with the wood grain.
    34. Apply some pressure while applying. Too little pressure will allow too much topcoat to “puddle” which will increase dry time. Topcoat will naturally level to some degree.
    35. Apply diagonally on Parquet wood floors.
    36. Allow finish to dry a minimum of 1 hour and then re-coat. Lower temperatures (below 55°F) and/or higher humidly (above 50% Relative Humidity) may cause slower dry times. Re-coat only when previous coat has dried clear and feels hard to the hand. If any coat has dried more then 24 hours, lightly Prep the coat before re-coating to avoid potential problems.
    37. A minimum of 2 coats is recommended. No more than three coats should be applied.
    38. Wear shoe booties to avoid contaminating the floor!
    39. Allow to dry about 8 hours before submitting to light use and 72 hours before returning to normal use.
    40. Wear stocking feet first 4 hours!
    41. If there is some contaminant in the topcoat, when you add the catalyst you will note some lumps in the mixture.
    42. Have a paint strainer with elastic (or cheesecloth) ready to strain out the contaminants before usage.
    43. Two people should complete the edging of a single room at one time, then work together to complete the room before moving on to the next.
    44. Immediately after application, wash applicator pad with warm, soapy water. Follow with a warm water rinse. Cover remaining Step 3 until ready for next coat, if needed.
    45. NOTE: Much more detailed information is available on the training video, in the training manual and in the training class.
    46. Stained or Painted Wood: Follow manufacturer’s directions for application of stain or paint. Make certain surface is thoroughly dry before applying Wood-Solv Floor Finish. Refer to stain manufacture’s label for dry times
    47. Unfinished Surface Preparation: Using a disk or screen sander, screen the new wood surface. Remove dust with a tack cloth or with a vacuum.


    • Use Concentration: Undiluted
    • Coverage: About 1,000 square feet / gallon / coat.
    • Dry Time: About 75-120 minutes.
    • Wood-Solv Finish is available in Gloss #63073, Semi-Gloss #63075 and Satin #63077 Finishes.

    Related Wood Care and Restoration Information and Articles:

    Related Wood Care and Restoration Videos:

    Click the “Usage & Tips” tab above for an article titled “Hardwood Floors”.

    VIDEO: How to Apply Wood-Solv Wood Floor Finish to Worn Wood Floors

    Learn how to refinish worn, damaged wood floors - and MAKE MORE MONEY! View the video on preparing wood floor for refinishing and the video on repairing wood floors before viewing this video.

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    Hardwood Floors

    A surefire way to improve the look, durability and value of a home or apartment is with hardwood floors. Besides being beautiful and hard-wearing, hardwood floors are environmentally friendly as well. Wood is a natural resource that is both renewable and recyclable. Most hardwood floors almost never need to be replaced and can add thousands of dollars to the value of a home. Hardwood floors offer an incredible array of aesthetic options, too. From the kind of wood to the finish to the design of the floor pattern, hardwood floors will suit almost any taste and circumstance. This type of flooring is increasingly popular.

    Types of Hardwood Floors:

    Solid Wood Flooring comes in three main types. Each type is available in both an unfinished and a pre-finished version. Unfinished flooring must be job-site sanded and finished after installation. Pre-finished flooring is sanded and finished at the factory -- so it only needs installation. The three main types of solid wood flooring are:

    1. Solid wood flooringStrip Wood Flooring is denoted by the thickness and width of the wood planks. Strip flooring has a set width, but the thickness can vary. Strip flooring ranges in thickness from 5/16 of an inch to 3/4 of an inch wide. It is available only in widths of 1 1/2 inches, 2 inches and 2 1/4.inches.
    2. Plank Wood FloorPlank Wood Flooring only comes in two thicknesses, but unlike strip flooring, the widths can vary. It is available only in thicknesses of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch and a range of widths from 3 inches to 8 inches.
    3. Parquet Floors have a very different look from typical hardwoods. They are made up of geometrical patterns composed of individual wood slats held in place by mechanical fastening or an adhesive.
    4. Engineered wood floorEngineered Wood Flooring should not be confused with laminate wood flooring. Engineered flooring is produced by adhering layers of plastic laminate veneer with real wood. The main difference between this type of wood and laminate flooring is that laminate flooring contains no actual wood. Look for more on laminate wood flooring later in this article.
    5. Acrylic-Impregnated Wood Flooring is infused with sealant and color throughout the thickness of the wood. So, what is normally a surface “finish” is actually consistent throughout the wood. This type of flooring is most commonly used in commercial, not residential, projects. This type of floor is very hard and it is highly resistant to moisture and scratches.

    According to the World Floor Covering Association, once installed, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference between a solid wood floor and the other wood floors. Solid hardwood strip floors are the most common flooring option. Engineered flooring has become very popular due to its low cost.

    Solid hardwoods require more upkeep than engineered wood flooring, but they can always be refinished. If maintained, solid wood floors will retain their value better than engineered woods.

    The Most Common Wood Floor Varieties:

    • Red oak is America’s most popular flooring option. Reddish in color, with a coarse grain, it’s a stiff and dense wood that resists wear, but not as well as white oak.
    • White oak is brown in color, but can have a grayish cast. The grain is similar to red oak with more burls and swirls. It is harder and more durable than red oak.
    • Birch can range in color from light yellow to dark brownish red. Birch is softer than red oak, but is still a strong wood.
    • Beech has a reddish brown color and a very consistent grain. It is quite durable and has excellent shock resistance.
    • Pine is a yellowish brown color and contains a lot of swirls and knots. It has a natural resistance to insects and is about as hard as red oak.
    • Cherry wood is a light brown color. Because cherry is a soft wood, cherry isn’t often used for a whole floor. Instead, it makes an excellent decorative or accent wood.
    • Douglas fir is a yellowish tan color. This wood is about half as soft as red oak and can dent easily. It is only appropriate in certain flooring situations.

    Wood Floor Finishes:

    • Oil-Based Urethane - The most common surface finish, oil-based urethane is applied in two or three coats and is available in gloss, semi-gloss and satin sheens. The downside to this type of finish is the drying time -- up to 8 hours for each coat. Oil-based urethane finishes require good ventilation and yellow (amber) with age.
    • Water-Based Urethane - This finish dries quickly and cleans up easily with soap and water. Water-based urethane has less odor than oil-based urethane and doesn’t yellow over time. This is the type wood floor finish used in the Wood-Solv™ program, except Wood-Solv™ is even catalyzed, making it harder than more conventional water-based wood floor finishes.
    • Moisture-Cured Urethane - Slightly more durable than others, this finish is most often used on commercial projects and is very difficult to work with.
    • Conversion Varnish - Strong odor and fumes.
    • Satin and Glossy finishes - High gloss finishes look great at first, but they show scratches and scuffs more easily.
    • Low gloss or satin finishes are typically used in residential hardwood floor installations.

    Hardwood Floor Installation Methods:

    • Nail Down - Nails are used to fasten the wood to the subfloor. This method is often used with thin wood flooring.
    • Staple Down - Staples are used instead of nails to attach the floor to the subfloor. This method is simpler than the nail down method.
    • Glue Down - Engineered wood floors and parquets can be glued down. The wood is adhered to the subfloor with a strong adhesive.
    • Floating - This is the fastest and easiest method of installation. Floating floors are not attached to any subfloor, they simply float above it. Either adhesive is applied to the boards to keep them together, or the boards are made to simply snap together. Usually a pad is placed between the wood floor and the subfloor to protect against moisture and reduce noise. Floating floors can be installed over almost any surface.

    Refinishing Wood Floors:

    The great thing about wood floors is that they can last forever with proper care. No matter how careful one may be with hardwood floors, though, they will still need refinishing at some point. If the floors take a beating, from pets for example, they may have to be refinished more often. Some floors only need to be refinished every three years, some high traffic floors may need more frequent refinishing.

    If you’re wondering how you can tell that whether a wood floor needs to be refinished, there is a test you can take. First, find a high-traffic area where the finish is likely to be most worn and pour a tablespoon of water onto the floor:

    • If the water beads up and you can wipe it without a trace, the finish is still working and you don’t need to refinish.
    • If the water slowly soaks into the wood floor creating a moderately darkish spot, the floor is partially worn and will need to be refinished soon.
    • If the water immediately disappears into the wood leaving an obvious dark spot, it’s time to refinish the floor ASAP BEFORE it is severely damaged, requiring sanding to refinish!

    Related Wood Care and Restoration Information and Articles:

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    You can also order the packet at the Catalog Request Form.

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    Use Concentration:Undiluted
    Coverage:About 1,000 square feet / gallon / coat.
    Dry Time:About 75-120 minutes.