Wood Fresh Hardwood Preservation Satin Finish - 1 Gallon

Wood Floor Preservation Satin Finish for the Wood Floor Preservation System

Item # 63515

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  • Wood Fresh Water-Based Wood Floor Preservation Finish - Satin

    from Bane-Clene® Corp.

    Wood-Fresh Gloss Floor Finish

    The Wood Floor Preservation system is designed to preserve a hardwood floor that is already in fairly good condition, but the customer wants to keep it that way. It is designed for floors simply needing to be cleaned and brightened up with light coats of the Wood-Fresh Finish.

    Features and Benefits of Wood Floor Preservation Finishes:

    • Hardwood Preservation Finish (Gloss or Satin) is a low solid blend of urethane and acrylic polymers designed to be used as a preservation finish over an existing urethane finish on a hardwood floor that has been properly cleaned and prepared.
    • The Wood-Fresh Wood Floor Preservation finish serves as the wear coat and protects the original finish of the floor.
    • The Wood-Fresh Wood Floor Preservation finish is extremely easy to use, applies easily and smoothly with excellent leveling.
    • Most finishes from the factory and those applied to new raw wood will have a satin finish.
    • The customer should be aware that the gloss finish will show slightly more imperfections such as scuffs and microscratches as it wears than the satin finish .
    • It’s helpful to have some pieces of wood flooring you’ve prepared to show the customer the difference.

    Bane-Clene carries two wood floor care system: Wood-Solv™ and the Wood Floor Preservation System. How do these two wood care and refinishing systems differ and where is each used?

    • The key difference between the Wood-Fresh Wood Floor Preservation system and the Wood-Solv restoration system lies in the two words “preservation” and “restoration”.
    • Because the Wood Floor Preservation system is so easy to use, we encourage professionals who’ve never worked with finishes before to start with this system before advancing to the Wood-Solv system.
    • The Wood-Solv System is designed primarily to restore a hardwood floor or laminate floor that requires repairs, is badly worn with sometimes bare wood spots or is used on a floor with very heavy use such as in some commercial applications.
    • The Wood-Solv system incorporating a CATALYZED urethane very high solids finish is harder and more durable and can even be applied to bare wood and laminate. HOWEVER, it also is “trickier” to apply and get a smooth even coat with good adhesion. Additionally, once the finish is catalyzed in the can, it has a limited life span in the can.
    • For refinishing and restoring laminate floors, floors with some exposed bare wood or severely damaged floors, Wood-Solv is the preferred system to use.
    • Because the Wood Floor Preservation System is NOT designed for laminate floors or for hardwood floors with an aluminum oxide coating nor on bare wood, Wood-Solv is perfect for that application.

    Properties & Specifications:

    • Restrictions on Use: Professional Use Only. Keep out of reach of children.
    • Form: Milky white liquid.
    • Odor: Acrylic.
    • Use pH: 8.0 to 8.5.
    • Use Concentration: Undiluted.
    • Storage: Protect product from freezing - This finish IS NOT FREEZE-THAW STABLE! Keep container tightly closed in a dry, cool and well ventilated place when not in use. DO NOT pour left-over finish back into container!
    • Coverage: 1,000 per square feet per coat.
    • Dry Time:
      • Between Coats: 1 hour.
      • Stocking Feet Traffic: 1 hour after finish has dried.
      • Shoe Traffic: 24 hours.
      • Replacing Furniture: 24 hours
      • Replacing Rugs: 48 hours.
    • Container Size: Single gallons.
    • Manufacturer: Hydro-Force™ Manufacturing.
    • Country of Manufacture: United States of America.
    • VOC content: 0.
    • Flammability: Non-flammable.

    Instructions and Directions for PREPARING for Application of Wood-Fresh Preservation Finish:


    1. Determine if there is finish on the wood by placing drops of water in several places to see if it penetrates into the wood as evidenced by darkening.
      Test for bare wood
    2. If there is no finish present (bare wood), do not use the water-based wood floor preservation system - use the Wood-Solv system instead.
    3. Test the floor whether it is coated with aluminum oxide. In an inconspicuous area, lightly abrade the floor with sandpaper.
    4. If the floor is unaffected, it is coated with aluminum oxide - use the Wood-Solv system instead.
    5. Be aware that many such floors carry a warranty that is voided if a finish is applied to it.
    6. Inspect the floor for damage to the wood and the existing finish.
    7. Also check for wax, oil and soap coatings such as Orange Glo, Murphey® Oil Soap, Holloway House®, Mop & Glo®, etc.
    8. Apply a small amount of alcohol on a towel and apply to an inconspicuous area that the customer has been “cleaning”. If the finish comes off or turns cloudy, the “gunk” must be removed before proceeding. No water-based finish, including Wood Preservation Finish, will adhere to waxes or oils.
    9. The preinspection and prequalification step is essential for the success of each job. The system emphasizes the importance of preserving the original finish, so hopefully the customer will never have to go through the messy process of sanding and recoating their hardwood. This system does not make damaged or heavily scratched floors look like new. Floors in that condition should be restored using the Wood-Solv process or may need to be sanded or screened and refinished.

    Prepare the floor:

    1. Keep out of reach of children.
    2. Read label directions and cautions before using.
    3. Always test on a hidden or inconspicuous area first.
    4. Move out any furniture or other objects that may be in the way.
    5. If doing this job in an industrial or commercial setting, set out your Caution Signs and Caution Pads.
      Caution signs to avoid slipping
    6. Dust mop or vacuum (without the beater bar) the floor thoroughly.
    7. Mask off floor vents, baseboards and transitions from wood to other types of floors and with masking tape.
      Mask off areas with tape
    8. Mix 4 parts water to 1 part Wood Fresh Hardwood Cleaner in a sprayer.
    9. Spray a light mist application to a small section of the floor (about 10x10). Do not allow the cleaner to dry before cleaning. With a low speed floor machine (175 rpm), scrub the floor with a maroon floor pad. Because this is a inch pad, it is best to place a white floor pad between the maroon pad and the driver block to offer cushioning and prevent any damage to the floor as shown here.
      place a white floor pad between the maroon pad and the driver block
    10. Do not allow the cleaner to dry before cleaning.
    11. Wipe up residue as you go the Wood-Solv mop cover or the Microfiber Wood Finish Applicator Mop.
    12. Be careful not to over-apply Wood Fresh Hardwood Cleaner as excess water on the floor can cause damage.
    13. The scrubbing action will loosen and remove soil build-up as well as the surface of the old finish, leaving a surface that has a slightly rough feel. This new surface will readily accept and bond to the Hardwood Preservation Finish. NOTE: Aluminum oxide coated floors will not be abraded; therefore, the finish will not adhere!
    14. Mop the floor with a Wood-Solv mop cover or a Microfiber Wood Finish Applicator Mop to absorb the Wood Fresh Hardwood Cleaner and the released soil. Repeat this mopping procedure a second time.
    15. Spray the floor with a light coat of Wood Fresh Hardwood Cleaner and buff the floor with your floor machine and a cotton bonnet (absorbent pad).
    16. While wearing shoe booties, go over the floor a final time with a damp clean terry cloth cover attached to the applicator. This will remove any dust or lint before applying finish.
    17. In corners and along the edges of the floor, you will need to accomplish the above procedures by hand. You may remove the center portion of the maroon pad or use a Doodle Bug scrubbing pad for this handwork.
    18. You are now ready to apply Hardwood Preservation Finish as soon as the floor is dry. Depending on conditions, this could take up to 1 hour.

    Instructions and Directions for APPLYING Wood-Fresh Preservation Finish:

    1. Keep out of reach of children.
    2. Read label directions and cautions before using.
    3. Always test on a hidden or inconspicuous area first.
    4. If applying the satin finish, 30 minutes prior to applying the finish, the container should be gently rocked to mix the ingredients.
    5. Apply finish with the Corner Edger Applicator or the Microfiber Wood Finish Applicator Mop.
    6. Corners and edges: Using the Corner Edger Applicator, apply Wood Finish to edges and corners by hand.
    7. Apply the finish about an hour after the abrasion cleaning system is completed. The abrasion cleaning system leaves the hardwood floor damp making necessary a dry time of about an hour.
      Applying the Preservation Finish
    8. Avoid creating bubbles when applying the finish.
    9. Start in the furthest area from your exit. Apply a small amount of finish in a 4 or 5 foot area, spreading it uniformly as you work your way back toward the exit door.
    10. To apply, use the Corner Edger Applicator or the Microfiber Wood Finish Applicator Mop. Once the floor has dried naturally for approximately 45 minutes, a second coat of finish is then applied and also allowed to dry naturally. DO NOT force dry the finish.
    11. The end result is a clean, refinished and rejuvenated wood floor and a happy customer.

    Related Wood Care and Restoration Information and Articles:

    Related Wood Care and Restoration Videos:

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    Bane-Clene Paper CatalogFree packet of information about Bane-Clene can be obtained by calling toll-free 1-800-428-9512 (U.S. ONLY!). Your information packet will include a full color catalog and price addendum. Packets will arrive in approximately 2 weeks through standard United States Mail.

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    Hardwood Floors

    A surefire way to improve the look, durability and value of a home or apartment is with hardwood floors. Besides being beautiful and hard-wearing, hardwood floors are environmentally friendly as well. Wood is a natural resource that is both renewable and recyclable. Most hardwood floors almost never need to be replaced and can add thousands of dollars to the value of a home. Hardwood floors offer an incredible array of aesthetic options, too. From the kind of wood to the finish to the design of the floor pattern, hardwood floors will suit almost any taste and circumstance. This type of flooring is increasingly popular.

    Types of Hardwood Floors:

    Solid Wood Flooring comes in three main types. Each type is available in both an unfinished and a pre-finished version. Unfinished flooring must be job-site sanded and finished after installation. Pre-finished flooring is sanded and finished at the factory -- so it only needs installation. The three main types of solid wood flooring are:

    1. Solid wood flooringStrip Wood Flooring is denoted by the thickness and width of the wood planks. Strip flooring has a set width, but the thickness can vary. Strip flooring ranges in thickness from 5/16 of an inch to 3/4 of an inch wide. It is available only in widths of 1 1/2 inches, 2 inches and 2 1/4.inches.
    2. Plank Wood FloorPlank Wood Flooring only comes in two thicknesses, but unlike strip flooring, the widths can vary. It is available only in thicknesses of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch and a range of widths from 3 inches to 8 inches.
    3. Parquet Floors have a very different look from typical hardwoods. They are made up of geometrical patterns composed of individual wood slats held in place by mechanical fastening or an adhesive.
    4. Engineered wood floorEngineered Wood Flooring should not be confused with laminate wood flooring. Engineered flooring is produced by adhering layers of plastic laminate veneer with real wood. The main difference between this type of wood and laminate flooring is that laminate flooring contains no actual wood. Look for more on laminate wood flooring later in this article.
    5. Acrylic-Impregnated Wood Flooring is infused with sealant and color throughout the thickness of the wood. So, what is normally a surface “finish” is actually consistent throughout the wood. This type of flooring is most commonly used in commercial, not residential, projects. This type of floor is very hard and it is highly resistant to moisture and scratches.

    According to the World Floor Covering Association, once installed, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference between a solid wood floor and the other wood floors. Solid hardwood strip floors are the most common flooring option. Engineered flooring has become very popular due to its low cost.

    Solid hardwoods require more upkeep than engineered wood flooring, but they can always be refinished. If maintained, solid wood floors will retain their value better than engineered woods.

    The Most Common Wood Floor Varieties:

    • Red oak is America’s most popular flooring option. Reddish in color, with a coarse grain, it’s a stiff and dense wood that resists wear, but not as well as white oak.
    • White oak is brown in color, but can have a grayish cast. The grain is similar to red oak with more burls and swirls. It is harder and more durable than red oak.
    • Birch can range in color from light yellow to dark brownish red. Birch is softer than red oak, but is still a strong wood.
    • Beech has a reddish brown color and a very consistent grain. It is quite durable and has excellent shock resistance.
    • Pine is a yellowish brown color and contains a lot of swirls and knots. It has a natural resistance to insects and is about as hard as red oak.
    • Cherry wood is a light brown color. Because cherry is a soft wood, cherry isn’t often used for a whole floor. Instead, it makes an excellent decorative or accent wood.
    • Douglas fir is a yellowish tan color. This wood is about half as soft as red oak and can dent easily. It is only appropriate in certain flooring situations.

    Wood Floor Finishes:

    • Oil-Based Urethane - The most common surface finish, oil-based urethane is applied in two or three coats and is available in gloss, semi-gloss and satin sheens. The downside to this type of finish is the drying time -- up to 8 hours for each coat. Oil-based urethane finishes require good ventilation and yellow (amber) with age.
    • Water-Based Urethane - This finish dries quickly and cleans up easily with soap and water. Water-based urethane has less odor than oil-based urethane and doesn’t yellow over time. This is the type wood floor finish used in the Wood-Solv™ program, except Wood-Solv™ is even catalyzed, making it harder than more conventional water-based wood floor finishes.
    • Moisture-Cured Urethane - Slightly more durable than others, this finish is most often used on commercial projects and is very difficult to work with.
    • Conversion Varnish - Strong odor and fumes.
    • Satin and Glossy finishes - High gloss finishes look great at first, but they show scratches and scuffs more easily.
    • Low gloss or satin finishes are typically used in residential hardwood floor installations.

    Hardwood Floor Installation Methods:

    • Nail Down - Nails are used to fasten the wood to the subfloor. This method is often used with thin wood flooring.
    • Staple Down - Staples are used instead of nails to attach the floor to the subfloor. This method is simpler than the nail down method.
    • Glue Down - Engineered wood floors and parquets can be glued down. The wood is adhered to the subfloor with a strong adhesive.
    • Floating - This is the fastest and easiest method of installation. Floating floors are not attached to any subfloor, they simply float above it. Either adhesive is applied to the boards to keep them together, or the boards are made to simply snap together. Usually a pad is placed between the wood floor and the subfloor to protect against moisture and reduce noise. Floating floors can be installed over almost any surface.

    Refinishing Wood Floors:

    The great thing about wood floors is that they can last forever with proper care. No matter how careful one may be with hardwood floors, though, they will still need refinishing at some point. If the floors take a beating, from pets for example, they may have to be refinished more often. Some floors only need to be refinished every three years, some high traffic floors may need more frequent refinishing.

    If you’re wondering how you can tell that whether a wood floor needs to be refinished, there is a test you can take. First, find a high-traffic area where the finish is likely to be most worn and pour a tablespoon of water onto the floor:

    • If the water beads up and you can wipe it without a trace, the finish is still working and you don’t need to refinish.
    • If the water slowly soaks into the wood floor creating a moderately darkish spot, the floor is partially worn and will need to be refinished soon.
    • If the water immediately disappears into the wood leaving an obvious dark spot, it’s time to refinish the floor ASAP BEFORE it is severely damaged, requiring sanding to refinish!

    Related Wood Care and Restoration Information and Articles:

    Free Bane-Clene Information Package

    Bane-Clene Paper CatalogFree packet of information about Bane-Clene can be obtained by calling toll-free 1-800-428-9512 (U.S. ONLY!). Your information packet will include a full color catalog and price addendum. Packets will arrive in approximately 2 weeks through standard United States Mail.

    You can also order the packet at the Catalog Request Form.

    ABC - Sitemap“A to Z” Alphabetical Index to the Bane-Clene Web Site

    Bane-Clene Home Page

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    Coverage1,000 square feet per gallon